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Bare-root trees are lifted from the field while dormant and sold without soil around their roots. Because they are asleep, they suffer less transplant shock than pot-grown trees, and their roots settle quickly into your soil. In Britain, the bare-root season runs from late October to early March. It is the traditional way to plant native trees such as oak, rowan, crab apple and hazel, and it is usually kinder on the wallet. Cedar can be planted bare-root too, and if you enjoy cedar woodcraft, a few sturdy stakes or a simple guard made from cedar offcuts will serve you well for years.
Start with a tree suited to your soil and space. Check the mature height and spread, not just the promise of quick growth. A bare-root whip or feathered maiden is ideal for a beginner: young, forgiving and quick to establish. When you unwrap your tree, look at the roots. They should be plump, flexible and covered in fine fibrous roots. Dry, brittle or blackened roots are a warning sign. The stem should be firm, with a clean grafting point if it is a grafted variety. If you cannot plant immediately, heel the tree in: dig a shallow trench, lay the roots in it and cover with soil. This buys you a week or two, but planting straight away is best.
Plant when the soil is workable but not frozen or waterlogged. A mild day in November or February is perfect. Choose a spot that matches the tree's needs: most fruiting and native trees want sun, while some tolerate light shade. Clear weeds and grass from a metre-wide circle. Fork over the soil and work in a bucket or two of well-rotted compost or manure. On heavy clay, add grit; on sandy soil, extra compost helps hold moisture. Dig a square hole, wider than the roots can spread and just deep enough that the root collar — where roots meet trunk — sits at soil level. Keep topsoil and subsoil in separate piles. A square hole encourages roots to spread outwards rather than circle round.
Your tree's first spring is when it needs you most. Water deeply once a week in dry spells — roughly 10 to 20 litres for a young tree — and more often on sandy soil. A good soak is far better than a daily sprinkle. Keep a weed-free circle around the trunk, as grass and weeds compete fiercely for water and nutrients. Check ties and stakes every few months, loosening them as the trunk thickens. Do not fertilise in the first year unless your soil is very poor; too much food encourages leafy growth at the expense of roots. Protect the trunk from rabbits and deer with a spiral guard or a cylinder of mesh. Prune only broken or crossing branches in the first winter. With steady watering, your tree will reward you with strong growth by midsummer.
Think ahead to how the tree will fit your garden. A row of bare-root hedging plants will screen a seating area within a few years. A crab apple or rowan makes a lovely focal point near a bench, and its blossom and berries will bring birds. If you enjoy cedar woodcraft, you could build a simple bench from cedar boards and place it where the tree's future shade will fall — a fine excuse to sit and watch it grow. Bare-root planting is an act of optimism. The tree looks modest now, but the roots are already reaching out. Give them a good start, and they will do the rest.
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Native perennials and grasses create a resilient border that supports wildlife while needing less watering and feeding once established.
Thomas A. Edison
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Winter pruning removes dead wood and opens the centre of apple trees, encouraging strong growth and a reliable crop next season.
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