The Pot, the Compost and the Position

Camellias are woodland plants, happiest in acid soil, dappled light and leafy, moisture-retentive ground. Growing them in pots lets you give them exactly that — provided you choose the compost carefully. Ordinary multi-purpose compost is usually too alkaline and too light, and after a season or two the leaves turn yellow between the veins, a classic sign of iron being locked away. Use a good ericaceous compost, ideally a loam-based blend, and mix in a handful of horticultural grit or bark for drainage.

Choose a pot that is generously wide rather than deep, as camellias are shallow-rooted, and make sure the drainage holes work. Terracotta looks handsome but dries out quickly; glazed or frost-proof plastic holds moisture far better. Always stand pots on feet so surplus water can escape.

Position matters as much as compost. A spot that catches early morning sun is the one to avoid: if frosted buds thaw quickly in the sun, the flowers turn brown and drop. A sheltered north or west-facing wall, or dappled shade beneath a deciduous tree, suits them beautifully.

• Compost: ericaceous, with grit or bark for drainage.
• Pot: wide, free-draining, stood on feet.
• Position: shelter from morning sun and cold east winds.

Spring: After the Flowers Fade

Most camellias flower between February and April, and the weeks that follow are the busiest of the year for their care. Pick up fallen blooms promptly, especially in wet weather, as spent petals encourage petal blight. Once the display is over, give the plant an ericaceous fertiliser — a slow-release granular one in spring, topped up with liquid feed through the summer — and water it in well with rainwater if you have it.

If the plant needs shaping, prune immediately after flowering and no later. Camellias flower on growth made the previous year, so cutting back in summer or autumn removes the very buds you have been waiting for. Keep the secateurs light: a tidy-up of straggly shoots is usually all that is needed.

Summer: Steady Moisture Above All

Summer is when next spring's display is decided. The buds form in late summer, and a dry spell in August can cause them to shrivel and drop long before they have a chance to open. Water thoroughly and regularly — a good soak twice a week in hot weather beats a daily sprinkle — and let the excess drain away. Never leave the pot standing in a saucer of water.

In hard water areas, tap water is alkaline and will gradually push the compost the wrong way. Rainwater from a butt is ideal. A mulch of bark chippings over the surface conserves moisture and keeps the roots cool, and moving pots out of the fiercest afternoon sun in July and August saves them from baking. Watch for vine weevil grubs in the compost and scale insects on the undersides of the leaves.

Autumn: Bud Set and the Run-Up to Winter

By early autumn the flower buds are swelling and the plant is storing energy for the colder months. Keep watering steadily and do not allow the compost to dry out, but ease off the feeding — a nitrogen-rich diet now produces soft growth that frost will cut back. A light feed of a low-nitrogen ericaceous fertiliser in late summer is plenty.

Move pots to their winter position before the first frosts, while the plants are still light enough to shift easily. Clear fallen leaves from around the base and check that the drainage holes have not become blocked.

Winter: Sheltering the Buds and the Roots

Roots in a pot freeze far harder than roots in the ground, so give the container itself some insulation. Wrap it in bubble wrap, hessian or a straw jacket, and stand it on pot feet or a block of wood so it sits off the frozen patio. A sheltered corner against a wall or fence is far kinder than an exposed spot.

If a hard frost is forecast while the plant is in bud, drape fleece over the top in the evening and take it off in the morning — the point is to keep the cold air moving, not to cook the plant. A small camellia in a light pot can simply be carried into a cool, bright shed or unheated conservatory for the worst of the weather. Water sparingly on mild days; a frozen pot of bone-dry compost does more damage than damp compost. Brush heavy snow off the foliage before it settles.

Repotting and the Long Term

Every two or three years, in late spring once flowering has finished, tip the plant out of its pot and look at the roots. If they are circling the edge, move it into a container one size larger — no more than that, or the fresh compost will stay wet and sour. If the camellia has reached the size you want, top-dress instead: scrape away the top few centimetres of old compost and replace it with fresh ericaceous mix and a little grit.

Be gentle. Camellias resent root disturbance, so tease out only the outermost roots and trim away any that are dead. Water well, keep the plant out of strong sun for a fortnight, and it will settle quickly. Looked after this way, a potted camellia will live for decades, giving you glossy evergreen leaves all year and a generous show of flowers when little else in the garden is awake.